An hour north of the beach resorts, the Algarve transforms into something completely unexpected: green mountains, cork forests, and thermal springs.
The Serra de Monchique is the Algarve nobody talks about. At 902 meters, Foia is the highest point in the region — on clear days you can see both the west and south coasts from the summit. The drive up winds through eucalyptus groves and cork oak forests where pigs roam free.
The town of Monchique itself is a pleasant tangle of steep streets and old houses. It is famous for medronho — a ferocious spirit distilled from the berries of the arbutus tree. Every restaurant offers it after dinner. Accept carefully.
Below the town, Caldas de Monchique is a small thermal spa village set in a wooded ravine. The water comes out at 32 degrees. There has been a spa here since the Romans, and the current bathhouse has the kind of quiet, slightly faded grandeur that modern wellness retreats try and fail to replicate.
Getting there: N266 from Portimao, 25 km north. The road is winding but well-maintained.