If the Algarve had a town that could make you forget about beaches for an afternoon, it would be Tavira.
Tavira straddles the Rio Gilao, connected by an ancient Roman bridge that has carried foot traffic for two millennia. The town has 37 churches — roughly one for every 500 residents — and a Moorish castle with gardens that look out over a sea of terracotta rooftops.
Unlike Lagos or Albufeira, Tavira never reinvented itself for package tourism. The old town is lived-in, not curated. Laundry hangs from tiled facades. Old men play cards outside cafes. The municipal market sells fish that was in the ocean three hours ago.
Take the ferry to Ilha de Tavira — a barrier island with an endless sand beach. In September, after the crowds leave, it is possibly the most peaceful place in southern Europe.
Getting there: 30 km east of Faro on the EN125. Train service from Faro/Lisbon.